Day 10 Hiking Journey: Dwellingup to Swampy Oak Camp

Day 10: Dwellingup to Swampy Oak Camp

Daily distance hiked: 13km
Cumulative distance hiked: 228km

I thought a full 24 hours would be more than enough time in Dwellingup but it passed by quickly. I rose early to make the most of my remaining time in this cute trail town. I resupplied with visits to the bike shop, visitor centre and general store. Given Dwellingup lacks a major supermarket many hikers choose to send a resupply box here. I had decided to wing it and with some flexibility I was able to find everything I needed in town. The general store had been cleared out of wraps by a school group earlier in the week so I opted for corn thins for my lunches, workable but not the most practical.

I made the rookie error of re-suppling before breakfast and purchased a few too many snacks. Famished from the food shopping I dropped my excessive haul off at my accomodation and headed back to the Blue Wren for a breaky big enough to keep me full until 3pm.

A breakfast plate featuring poached eggs, baked beans, grilled tomatoes, sautéed mushrooms, whole grain toast with butter packets, and a wedge of lime, set on a green wooden table.

A silver teapot next to a blue cup of tea on a saucer, accompanied by a small pitcher of milk and a piece of chocolate cake on a decorative blue plate with a fork.

I reluctantly got ready to roll out of town. Packed my bag, did some obligatory stretching, the homework set by my physio and scoffed one last brownie just to be sure. With no further faffing to be done I head out mid morning.

A woman with a backpack takes a selfie in a forested area, with tall trees and a hiking trail sign in the background.

Close-up of a flowering plant with a yellow, fluffy bloom and slender, green foliage in a natural setting.

Less than 1km back into the trail I instantly regretted not taking a full zero, I was starting to feel pain through the tendon of my right foot. It took me by surprise, it was an overuse injury that has caused me grief earlier in the year when training for UTA100 but it had been behaving perfectly until this point. I felt annoyed that it hadn’t given me warning earlier. Had I just not felt it whilst I was powering into town yesterday through the rain? I was kicking myself for pushing on but figured there wasn’t much I could do about it now. Shorter days would be better for it so I decided to continue hiking to Swampy Oak.

Close-up of a charred tree trunk featuring a bright yellow marker with a black design, surrounded by a lush green forest.

A dirt road winding through tall green trees under a blue sky, with a caution sign indicating 'Hikers Crossing' on the left.

Thankfully the trail was easy walking, the weather gods threatened rain a few times but only ever delivered light sprinkles. There was a bit of road walking thanks to a detour around a logging area but it resulted in me meeting a lovely local resident and his Kelpie who were undertaking some heavy duty weeding. I was a bit alarmed when I first spotted him sawing down mature wattle trees but he explained to me that they were East Coast Wattle and were considered a weed in WA due to their rampant growth. After a bit of chit chat and a game of pine cone fetch with his pooch I pressed on.

Close-up of a flowering plant with delicate white flowers and green stems, set against a blurred natural background.

A person holding a sandwich, smiling in a forested area with trees and greenery in the background.

Thanks to the delicious Blue Wren breaky I wasn’t hungry for lunch until 3. I found a beautiful sunny spot on the trail and devoured a Conti roll I picked up at the general store. Conti rolls are a new experience for me, I first learned about them from Jeff whose beautiful wife had delivered one to him at Mt Dale. A WA invention, Jeff explained that they include deli meats and various antipasti but I didn’t fully grasp the hype until I ate one myself. The memory of that delicious 3 meat roll stayed with me kms down the trail.

After being vegetarian for the best part of 10 years I started eating meat about 1 year before hiking the bib but mostly stuck to chicken or beef and ensured everything I ate was ethically raised, organic and fee range. For the hike I gave myself the freedom to eat whatever I felt like and whatever my body craved. I was really enjoying this new found freedom, breaking away from my self imposed rules, I particularly enjoyed the salami in that Conti roll.

A person wearing a purple jacket and a backpack smiles in front of a rustic shelter surrounded by trees and vegetation.

I eventually strolled into camp around 4pm and quickly discovered it would be my first night alone on trail. I feel equal parts free and anxious. I was in the bush but still so close to town, what if a murder or rapist comes for me at night? What if the guy I saw earlier in the day is actually a serial killer with a fetish for hikers?!? My mind works in interesting ways, with another hiker in camp I would not have experienced these thoughts but in reality, if old mate did come at me with his chainsaw, Jeff or any other hiker wouldn’t be stopping him. I eventually relaxed into it and started to enjoy the freedom and solitude. I could literally do whatever the fuck I wanted, it was a nice feeling. I got set up, did my obligatory exercises and snuggled into bed with a cup of tea, journalling and reading in the warmth.

A person standing outside a wooden shelter in a forest, surrounded by tall trees and shrubs, with picnic tables and a water tank nearby.

A person standing on a dirt path in a dense forest, surrounded by tall trees and lush greenery, with a wooden bench visible in the background.

Day 11

Swamp Oak Campsite to Murray Campsite
20km

Thankfully the night was free from axe murders and rapists but I did receive a visit from a resident mouse. despite all of the stories and warnings it was the first time encountering a hut rodent. Sadly my little visitor has put and end to my daily breakfast in bed, from now on I will be hanging my food and gear.

With only 20kms to cover today I enjoyed a slow start to the morning with a coffee and a novel, It was pure bliss underneath the trees at Swamp Oak. After much faff I finally headed out shortly before 11am. Most people I have met on track have been rushing out at the crack of dawn. When the campsites are so lovely I can’t quite understand why.

Close-up of a weathered wooden post with moss on top, featuring a yellow warning sign depicting a snake, set against a blurred forest path.

Close-up of vibrant flowers featuring orange and pink petals, with green foliage in the background.

The sky threatened rain again today, but thankfully it held off bar a couple of tiny sprinkles. I was grateful to have a dry day. It even warmed up enough for me to take my jacket off at one point, what a treat!

A hiker walking along a dirt path in a dense forest with tall trees and overcast skies.

Despite the late start it turned out to be a spectacular day for wildlife, I saw my first emu of the track! At first I had no idea what it was, I heard a low level grunting sound and thought the avocado stashed in my cook pot was rolling around. I was ecstatic when I spotted it through the bushes, and despite there being no one else in sight, yelled “emu!” at the top of my lungs. This probably only made it run from me faster but it happened involuntarily in all the excitement.

A person hiking on a dirt trail surrounded by lush green vegetation and tall trees under a partly cloudy sky.

The wildlife spotting continued throughout the day. I was lucky enough to see an echidna, a marsupial that looked like an oversized antechinus, countless, wallabies, roos and an abundance of birdlife.

A echidna resting against the trunk of a tree, partially hidden among fallen leaves and underbrush.

Close-up of vibrant yellow and maroon flowers surrounded by green foliage.

With the fine weather I was able to sit and enjoy both lunch and afternoon tea. Its the simple pleasures I enjoy most on trail, stopping for snacks rather than munching whilst hiking. I decided that every day should be like this from now on and vowed to maximise my time out on the track.

A woman with brown hair wears a cap and smiles while holding a slice of avocado and cheese on a cracker, sitting in a forested area with greenery and a charred tree in the background.

Two open sandwiches with cheese, lettuce, and sun-dried tomatoes on a blue jacket, alongside a container holding an avocado, set against a dirt background.

Murray Camp was a spectacularly beautiful spot and one of my favourite huts so far. It is built right on the river so I was able to stick my aching foot in the water to ice my tendon. I made tea and lit a fire, which took off just before the rain came in. It was as though the 11mm forecast for the entire day came down all at once. My poor little fire didn’t stand a chance.

A person crouched by a fire pit, observing smoke rising in a forested area. Surrounding the fire pit are logs and tree stumps, with trees and greenery in the background.

A close-up image of an open notebook showing a handwritten log with entries including names, locations, dates, and notes about weather or sightings.

Despite the rain the temperature was mild, I was able to sit and enjoy my dinner without feeling the urge to dive into bed. People keep telling me that it will only get colder the further south I walk but I really hope not!

Day 12

Murray Campsite to Dookanelly Campsite
19km

My second solo night on trail. Having hung my gear clear of all mice, I slept much better than the night before butwoke in the early hours to what I thought were foot steps. It turned out to be heavy rain on the hut roof.

Person standing by a calm, reflective body of water surrounded by lush greenery in a woodland area.

A thick fog hung over the river this morning, it was simultaneously beautiful and eerie. After forcing myself out of bed for the obligatories, I returned to my sleeping bag with my coffee, breakfast and book, waiting for the day to warm up just a little before packing up and getting moving for the day.

A small mushroom growing amidst moss and damp bark in a forest setting.

Close-up of a bright orange mushroom growing among brown leaves and twigs on the forest floor.

Close-up of green and orange lichen growing on wood in a forest, showcasing small, delicate structures.

The trail wound along the river most of the day. The river would be in my view along some stretches but at times the trail turned into a green tunnel and I could only hear it. It was a nice change, a contrast to the red earth and open vegetation that I had encountered on the trail thus far.

A close-up of a small ant walking on a layered, textured mushroom cap.

Close-up view of orange mushrooms growing on forest floor with leaves and small green plants in the background.

The silver lining from the wet weather was a superb fungi bloom. I spotted, intense oranges, reds and pinks as I walked.

A close-up of bright yellow fungus growing on a tree trunk, surrounded by textured bark.

A close-up of an orange mushroom growing on dark, textured bark, set against a blurred green background.

My lunch spot was a mossy dirt patch within the green tunnel. Almost 2 weeks in and I think my hiker hunger is starting to develop, it was the first time on trail I have eating something from the ground, a piece of cheese that took a tumble from atop one of my corn thins.

A warning sign depicting a snake, affixed to a tree in a wooded area.

My two days of solitude came to an end at Dookanelly Camp. after not seeing another human for 2 days I felt anxious when I heard voices approaching the hut. Dookanelly is situated close to an access road, I was worried about the type of people it might attract. My inital concerns quickly abated when I realised it was female voices I was hearing! I was delighted to see two lovely ladies in their 60s appear on the track, Flick and Beedie. Two well travelled hikers they had only recently finished the Camino and were section hiking the Bib. We had a lovely evening chatting, sharing hiking stories and tips. They taught me how to light a fire with hand sanitiser, ingenious! I really enjoyed having an all ladies evening at the hut, we would have talked until the early hours of the morning had the cold not forced us into our sleeping bags.

A person hiking on a dirt trail surrounded by tall trees in a forest, with a blue sky partially covered by clouds.

A person hiking on a dirt path surrounded by tall trees and shrubs, approaching a small shelter in a forested area.

I ended the day with my foot issue stable for now, thankfully. Loosening my laces and changing up the lace position seemed to help. Despite the positive progress I am still feeling nervous about the 30+ km day only a few days ahead of me.

Day 13

Dookanelly Campsite to Possum Springs Campsite
24km

I felt sad saying goodbye to Flick and Beedie this morning. I really enjoyed my short time with them. We took a quick photo and hugged each other goodbye before heading out in opposite directions. One of the things I love about hiking is the way trails bring together people from different walks of life. I felt a warm instant connection to these two ladies, it was bitter sweet to leave knowing I was unlikely to ever see them again. I thought about what a magical thing it is to share just one small moment together, that maybe there is an element of the divine involved and maybe that a small moment was just what it was meant to be.

Three women smiling together in front of a wooden structure, with 'Dookanelly' sign above. They are outdoors, surrounded by trees.

Flick and Beedie were friends not sisters but seeing them together made me think a lot about my sister, kelly. About how we will never get the opportunity to experience growing old together and about the adventures we will never get to share. I think about Kell often as I walk, I think she would have loved out here on the Bib. Unlike the AAWT I don’t remember ever speaking to her about hiking the track together but it would have been the perfect hike to do together. I like to think I could have coaxed her to come with me. I had a good cry about Kell as I hiked into the afternoon. One of the beautiful things about hiking solo is the ability to be just as you are, to feel all the feelings exactly as they are, when they arise. For me it feels like the ultimate freedom to be the truest version of myself.

A person walking on a suspension bridge surrounded by trees and clear blue sky.

A person walking through a lush, green landscape in a forest, surrounded by grass trees and rocky terrain under a clear blue sky.

The walk from Dookanelly to Possum Springs was a beautiful, new realignment, thoughtfully crafted single track. It varied dramatically, through open mossy granite, Xanthorrhoea, Gum Forrest and spectacular wattle. This section of track has it all. I saw roos, wallaby’s and an engaging flock of red tail black cockatoos calling out overhead. I even spotted my first blue tongue lizard of the trail!

A person stands on a hiking trail surrounded by yellow flowers and tall trees, raising their arms in celebration against a clear blue sky.

Close-up of vibrant purple flowers with delicate petals and green foliage in the background.

A hiker smiling for a selfie in a forested area, surrounded by trees and shrubs on a sunny day.

Late in the day I crossed a huge bauxite mine conveyor belt. I first heard it yesterday afternoon, not far out from Dookanelly Campsite, then through yesterday evening and most of today. Unfortunately it stopped about an hour before I arrived at the crossing. I imagine it would have been terribly loud and unpleasant up close but I was keen to see it in action.

A hiker walking along a dirt trail through a tall forest with green trees and a clear blue sky.

A bird perched among dense green foliage, displaying its vibrant red underparts and dark feathers.

Walking through such spectacular bushland it was heartbreaking to realise the extent of the devastation already cause by mining in the area and the potential for further destruction with the vast expanses of land ear marked as future mine sites.

A woman smiling and posing for a selfie in front of a long pipeline running through a green and wooded area, with clear blue skies above.

A woman hiking along a trail surrounded by tall trees and flowering bushes on a sunny day.

A hiker with a backpack walks along a dirt path surrounded by tall trees and blue sky.

Day 14

Possum Springs Campsite to Harris Dam Campsite
35km

It was a 35km stretch from Possum Springs to Harris Dam Campsite and I wasn’t sure how my irritated tendon would hold up. It had woken me up during the night. Or was it the bitterly cold temperature? Or the awkward sleeping position which seems to be a constant in hiking life?

I wanted to give myself as much time as possible, to head out at first light so I set an alarm for 5.30. Thankfully I had the hut to myself so I didn’t disturb any other hikers. The bitter cold made it hard to get moving, I didn’t quite make first light but got away just before 7am.

A rustic picnic shelter made from natural materials, surrounded by dense trees in a forested area.

Close-up of frost-covered plant material surrounded by fallen leaves in a wooded area.

Shortly after leaving I met met a hiker who told me it was -1, it checked checked out. It was bloody cold and knowing the number somehow made me feel better about it.

In an attempt to defrost my hands I stuffed them in my jacket pockets as I walked but they were still quite painful. They felt like they had been repeatedly slammed in a freezer door.

The cold spurred me on to walk fast and not dilly dally too much but it was a picturesque morning and I couldn’t help but take photos.

Close-up of fluffy yellow flowers against a blurred background of greenery and blue sky.

A close-up of a flowering plant with vibrant pink flowers and green foliage, set against a blurred background of dried leaves and earth.

The cold morning transitioned into a spectacular clear sky day and the wild flowers were in spectacular bloom in this section of the track. Huge flocks of black cockatoos screeched at me from overhead. It felt like I passed every species of WA black cockatoo in the one morning.

Several black birds perched on the bare branches of a tree against a clear blue sky.

The 19k through to Yourdamung Camp went by quickly. I had a long lunch break, did my physio exercises and after both a coffee and a hot chocolate, ambled back out on the track. The brilliant thing about double hut days is having an epic lunch spot and not needing to carry much water.

A person walking along a dirt path surrounded by tall trees and greenery under a clear blue sky.

A hiker walking along a trail in a dense forest with tall trees and green foliage under a clear blue sky.

With plenty of time to make it to Harris Dam by sunset I took my time in the afternoon. The sun was out, not a cloud in the sky and the weather was starting to feel a little snakey so I made an effort to keep an eye out for them as I walked.

It was beautiful forest with Xanthorrhoeas and towering gums. I saw roos and lizards and played around taking plenty of photos.

A hiker walking along a trail in a dense forest, surrounded by tall trees and lush greenery.

A person balancing on a log in a lush forest with tall green plants and trees in the background.

A couple of kms before reaching Harris Dam Hut, I found myself in golden hour. The light through the trees was incredibly beautiful and I felt lucky to be there to experience it, just at that moment.

I was basking in the beauty of golden hour light when I spotted an emu dart across the track. Patiently I waited to see if it had any friends. Moments later another popped out! I felt so incredibly lucky to have seen 2 in such a short amount of time. What a way to celebrate 300 cumulative kms on the track!

A hiker walking along a sunlit trail in a dense forest, surrounded by tall trees and bright sunlight filtering through the leaves.

A close-up view of a hiker's foot in a running shoe stepping on a dirt path, with leaves and earth visible around.

Harris Dam hut shortly popped into view and despite the comments about it being creepy, it looked quite pretty. I was feeling nervous about the vehicle accessibility though, especially so on a Saturday night. I settled in on a top bunk and prayed to the hiking gods for an uneventful evening.

Day 15

Harris Dam Campsite to Collie
23km

My fears about Harris Dam Campsite were valid and the notes on FarOut proved to be true. It was a noisy campsite and the nearby water treatment works wasn’t the worst of it. Throughout the night I heard cars in not too distant area and was woken up by gun shots at 11pm. I figured that laying awake panicked about being shot in the dark wouldn’t prevent me from being shot so I shoved my ear plugs in and managed to get a few hours sleep. I was thankful when first light came and was up and out of there by 5.30am.

A person walking along a misty path in a dense forest, surrounded by tall trees and undergrowth.

It was an icy morning thanks to the early start. I was excited to get into Collie as early as possible but it was uncomfortably cold. My hands were super painful in the early hours, even with my Dwellingup general store gloves on. I stuffed them into my pockets, squeezing my hiking poles as I walked to try to get some feeling back into my fingers.

The morning grew foggy the closer I got to the dam. It reminded me of home and the fog we get over Katoomba when the weather changes from warm to cold.

A woman in a purple jacket and beanie smiles at the camera while standing near a misty lake surrounded by trees.

A whimsical arrangement of rocks and natural materials resembling a face on a tree stump in a forest setting.

Not far past the dam I saw a red pack cover ambling up the trail in the distance. For the last week I had seen a man called Tim enter his name in the hut registers a few days ahead of me. From his comments, I discerned he wasn’t in the best head space and I knew he hadn’t seen another human in 6 days. I had half expected to see him at Harris Dam the night before but as it turn out he pushed a little further and stealth camped by the dam. I excitedly rushed up behind him and asked “are you Tim? I’ve been behind you all week!”

In hindsight this must have given stage 5 stalker and I should have anticipated that he would greet me with suspicion but at the time I was a bit taken aback that Tim wasn’t more pleased to see me. After walking behind complete strangers for weeks, seeing their names and comments in the hut register I started to imagine who they were and what they looked like. Tim wasn’t at all what I dreamed up in my head. The vibes were low so standard hiker chit chat complete, I motored past Tim on a mission to find an all day breakfast in Collie. Despite the early start I still had over 20km to cover.

A person walking on a path surrounded by lush green plants and tall trees under a clear blue sky.

A close-up view of the rough bark of a tree with a yellow object partially visible in a hollow section.

I headed straight for Colliefields, an old pub with the reputation of being the best Cafe in town. Turns out the dining options in Collie are a bit grim, Colliefields was a disappointment. It had been 5 days since my last town meal and I was longing for a big breakfast but I had just missed their 12pm cut off. I opted for a club sandwich instead and when it was brought to the table I felt like I had stepped back into the 90s. Instant regret as it hit my stomach, I should have been more patient and ventured to the supermarket instead.

Collifields shut up shop and 1pm and I was abruptly kicked out. I headed to across town to The Black Diamond lodge, my accomodation in Collie for my first full zero. Although Collie itself was a bit grim, the Black Diamond lodge was amazing, budget friendly with shared facilities and every tiny detail thought of. The owners supply shampoo and conditioner and even left laundry detergent, coins and a bath robe so hikers can wash their clothes in something a little more comfortable and respectable than rain gear. It felt incredible to be clean!

A plate featuring a sandwich with lettuce and bacon, topped with crispy fries, alongside a coffee cup on a saucer. The setting includes a wooden table with visible restaurant utensils and decor in the background.

Person smiling in front of a 'Welcome to Collie' sign, surrounded by trees and a landscaped area.

Laundry done and clothes back on I headed to the supermarket for dinner supplies only to discover that it closed at 5pm! Apparently this is normal in WA. Luckily the little takeaway next door had home cooked meals and ready made salads. It was perfect. Dinner done. I called home, caught up on all the goings on and settled in for the evening with a mini supermarket facial.

Day 16

Collie
Zero – rest day

I was determined to make the most of my time in Collie so after a long, relaxed resupply, I picked up a coffee from the wagon in the park and set out to experience the most of what the town has to offer.

A large mural depicting a colorful snake intertwining around human figures, with the word 'Ngarngungudditj' displayed above on the wall.

A mural depicting multiple hands of different sizes gently holding a large, shiny red heart.

I took in some of the mural trail, visited the regional art gallery, craft hub and the most adorable local artist studio which is located in the old police station goal. Their artists were selling beautiful pottery, I wish I could have taken some with me but for weight reasons I settled on a cute hair tie. By the end of the day playing tourist, Collie had grown on me but I was looking forward to getting back on the trail and continuing south.

A woman with long hair styled in a bun, wearing sunglasses and a button-up shirt, smiles while standing on a road with a blue sky and scattered clouds in the background.

Colorful totem sculpture with painted figures and objects in a garden area, in front of a shop building under a blue sky with clouds.

Adam, Leigh and the Trees

Days 10-16: Finding solitude, emus and my first track zero

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